Saturday 4 February 2017

Via Arthur's Pass to paradise

The day started with a disappointment: Jemima and I have wanted to see glow worms since arriving in New Zealand; but the main cave on North Island was miles out of our way; and the main cave on South Island (which we drove right past) involved a two hour walk underground, which would be too much for Jemima. And then it turned out Hokitika had its own "glow worm dell"! So on our (rainy, again) departure from the campsite, that's where we headed. Kevin led us up the path; then up another path which took us to a dead end; and then back up the first path; and it turned out the destination was not quite what we were expecting: rather than a cave, more like high rainforest-y walls where (apparently) you could see glow worms. But not at 11am. Ah well. When we come back to New Zealand...

Mission 2: Hokitika town, a centre of New Zealand jade (also known as pounamu, and very important to the Maori), and the purchase of a souvenir for Jemima - she might not be able to remember this trip, so at least she'll have a physical memento. A pleasant amble in the emerging sun, including a dance to some buskers, and a wander among the driftwood sculpture festival on the beach; lunch in a cafe where they had a beehive behind glass on the wall with a pipe so the bees could get in and out; and finally the purchase of a heart made from flower jade - Jemima's choice. Mission accomplished.

And then the real mission of the day. Yesterday was the Great Coast Road; today was the Great Alpine Highway, across the Southern Alps via Arthur's Pass and its National Park towards Christchurch - we were on the home stretch now, two days left... And it was magnificent. The familiar forested mountains and creeks (favourite names so far: Cockney Creek and Deadman's Creek) led us up and up; Arthur's Pass itself was a very high up settlement of 62 people on what was the first main road to the west coast from Christchurch (men died building it); and then we were up in the high plateaus, still surrounded by mountains but huge scrubby, rocky ones this time, looking down on the wide spread of a hill station (farmland), with icy-looking rivers and bright blue lakes. And snow topped mountains! That's it: literally all weathers in New Zealand. 

It was a brilliant drive, definitely deserving of its title. And as we descended onto the low level farmed plains running into Christchurch, we decided (with Jemima asleep) to push on, past Christchurch, into the supposedly beautiful Banks Peninsula. A long journey past little farm after little farm; then a huge lagoon; and finally up an astonishingly tiny (for a State Highway) road winding up through an English-looking landscape of grassy hills. And finally, after six or so hours' driving (Kevin did amazingly), we got to the top and started to look down over the Peninsula (and the chance to take one photo before our phones died): a stunning view of a peaceful volcano-formed valley with a large sea inlet studded with boats running through the middle, surrounded by the green hills. 

It was 7pm by this time, so late for parking up, although it was still hot and sunny (the van temperature reading got up to 29.5 degrees, woo hoo!); and we had a campsite destination in mind; but worryingly there were a number of motorhomes heading back our way, out of the peninsula. We kept going, and kept hoping; but fears were realised: no room at the campsite, not a single space. But Kevin didn't despair, and drove us towards the main town, Akaroa, with the hope of a freedom camping spot (as they call wild camping here). And there, on the marina (we love a marina), with one space left: designated freedom camping spots, only a short walk across the village green/ cricket pitch through the amazingly pretty town to a restaurant on the water front with a view of the jetty and boats bobbing in the bay and the sun setting behind, right next to a playground. It would be almost impossible to beat this setting. And after a great meal (Akaroa was founded by French settlers, so is full of little bistros), we walked home in the dusk, feeling very lucky.

PS I'm afraid I'm struggling to upload photos as we've run out of mobile wifi. Annoying as the main theme of this post was the amazing scenery! Anyway, I'll put them up as soon as I get some wifi, hopefully tomorrow.

 

No glow worms...:

 

 

Dancing:


Beach sculpture interactions:



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