Oh dear. Up until today I was winning the prize for illest person this holiday - Jemima’s altitude sickness and Kevin’s cough were no match for my dodgy stomach, cough AND cold. But something thoroughly disagreed with Kevin in the night, and he was very sick. There was no way he was leaving the room, or even bed today.
I rearranged our planned trip to Christ the Redeemer, and gave Jemima free choice: she was still owed a day ever since the abortive science museum/ planetarium trip in Buenos Aires. So first on the list - as it has been for many years, all around the world (America, Australia, New Zealand, lots of Europe, even Great Yarmouth on her first birthday): the Aquarium.
And it was great, as Aquariums usually, reliably, are. Jemima declared, “we’re here for the funny fish, not the education”, so that became our goal. And of course there were lots: goggly-eyed groupers; those odd worms that come out of the sand; a snooty-looking parrot-fish that looked like it was wearing lipstick; smiling rays; catfish that looked like grumpy old men - all in evidence. Plus other forms of fun: the ubiquitous Nemo tank - which always draws the biggest crowds; and a good two storey tank with tunnel through it containing the usual sharks, but also something I never identified that looked like a fish who goes to Cross Fit: big, muscly, could swim fast and for days.
The biggest draw in this Aquarium, however, was the piranha tank, presumably partly because they’re local, but also because you could put your head inside and see them swimming round you (or just hanging in the water in a school - you don’t often see fish just sit there, suspended, but they were, and it was quite menacing). There was a queue but it was worth it.
We survived the exit through the gift shop without buying anything, and then headed to the Museu de Cera or Waxwork Museum next door (we’d been skilfully upsold this when buying the Aquarium tickets).
It was Jemima’s first experience of waxworks and she was pretty bemused, partly because she didn’t know who anyone was even if they HAD been recognisable (Forrest Gump? Peter Dinklage from Game of Thrones?). There was an AWFUL Elvis, but actually a pretty good Queen - and it was lovely to see her! She seemed such a friendly, familiar face, especially so far from home. (And weirdly good to know she’s still appreciated across the world.) It’s good it was cheap, though…
Then it was Part Two of Jemima’s Day: the Zoo! There were taxis lined up outside so rather than Uber we hopped into one of those, and he was very friendly and helpful, managing to communicate I should buy my ticket online to get it cheaper. (My Portuguese might be meagre, but it is appreciated.)
It turns out this was housed in part of the residence of the old Emperors of Brazil from the 19th Century - there was a gracious tree-lined approach, with some grand walls, but not much else was evident, apart from some excavated walls that were apparently the Imperial stables. We had a very tasty burger, slightly paranoid now about food poisoning, then started the visit.
To be honest, it was a bit sad. One Asian elephant who’d been there for 50 years (called Koala, strangely); a very unhappy-looking spectacled bear pacing in a slightly too small enclosure; and some empty enclosures that were supposed to house big cats - maybe a good thing they were empty. There was a happy looking capybara chilling in a pool though, and a very pretty deer Jemima fell in love with, and a humungous python enjoying the last corner of sun in his enclosure. It was also very pretty with lots of tropical vegetation - but I wouldn’t rush back.
We were pretty hot by this point, so Ubered back to the hotel for a rest in the cool quiet (and dark - Kevin was sleeping on and off, still really not well).
Jemima had requested sushi for dinner as part of her Day, but doing some research too many of them had tales of food poisoning for comfort - I just couldn’t face us getting ill too! So option B was pizza - I found an Italian walking distance from the hotel, and we went there - all very tasty (and, crucially, no ill-effects…).
After dinner I wanted to get some cash out, so we walked to the ATM in the nearby metro. As we’ve been travelling around Brazil, lots of people have emphasised Rio is not safe, be careful, so I was on my guard. As we finished, a very tall, strong-looking young man started walking towards us. But he then stopped, at a good distance - to let us move away before he got closer. He realised that we could have been scared by him - could have thought that he was coming to mug us - and he made a conscious effort to avoid that. It was such a sensitive & thoughtful thing to do, I was so impressed - and grateful.
I pointed it out to Jemima, and this turned into a safety-awareness lesson on the walk home:
- Which side of this street is safest to walk on? (The well-lit side NOT next to the dark park.)
- What do you see ahead you might want to avoid? (A man hanging about on the street corner - go around.)
- Is it safer on a busy street or a quiet street? (Busy - other people means witnesses which means more safety.)
- When are you most vulnerable? (When you’re alone, or distracted, or looking vulnerable - walk like you own the streets and you don’t look like an easy victim.)
I felt really grateful to have a real-world, relevant opportunity to talk to Jemima about this - and starting from a positive situation. We made it home safely, and quietly got into bed, hoping Kevin would be slightly better the next day…
Hotel staff in his Carnaval uniform:
Funny fish:
The Nemo crowd:
A very pretty interloper in the Nemo tank:
Piranhas!:
Museu de Cera:
Elvis?!:
Queenie!:
Grand entrance to the Zoo:
Lunch:
Welcome water misters:
Happy capybara:
Basking python:
A beautiful building opposite the Zoo entrance, presumably something to do with the Imperial palace:
View of Ipanema Beach from the hotel roof:
Ipanema (young) night life:
A parade of flower stalls:
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