Our first proper sighting was on the early morning walk from the hotel, led by a guide. We were in walking shoes, ready for the “trail” - which turned out to be a paved path so our hardcore footwear was slightly unnecessary…
The major advantage of our hotel is that, as it’s inside the national park, we can visit the waterfalls before the park opens to the general public. Which meant that, once we’d decided to get ahead of the group, there were very few people around.
We kept stopping for photos as the views got better and better, until we ended up at a walkway out over the water, right into the mouth of the falls. As I was walking out, a Brazilian woman was walking back, and we had a moment of connection about how overwhelmingly amazing it was, me in English, her in Portuguese, but understanding each other completely. We were soaked by the spray, the noise was thunderous, and rainbows shone in the early morning sunshine - and we had the place practically to ourselves - it was spectacular.
Back to the hotel, dry clothes, then a shuttle bus to another local tourist spot, the Parque des Aves, or Bird Park. Huge walk-in aviaries with bird species from the Atlantic rainforest (which is where we are), including the vultures we’d seen circling in the thermals created by the Falls that morning. Jemima got close to a toucan, we watched parakeets grooming each other, and Jemima tried unsuccessfully to get a butterfly to land on her. A lovely little interlude.
Across the road, however, was the main attraction: Helisul, offering helicopter rides over the Falls. Another incredibly efficient operation, two helicopters running in tandem taking groups of 5 for a spectacular flight. We got a numbered ticket (like in a shop), and waited our turn - me getting increasingly nervous…
When we finally got on board, Jemima was offered the front seat, next to the pilot (which she was thrilled about), and Kevin and I were in the back with a young Brazilian couple. I literally couldn’t look up from my lap for the first minute and a half, concentrating on my breathing - but once we’d levelled out and I could allow myself to be distracted by the views, it was wonderful.
Thousands of hectares of lush green forest, with the peaceful brown river slowly curving through it - until we came over the actual Falls, with the noise, and the spray, and the white drama of it all. Our pilot did some terrifying banking to give us all a great view (which Jemima loved), and then we were back on the ground, me with shaky knees…(Jemima told me later the pilot had spent take-off and the first few minutes after sorting out his Spotify playlist - she said she thought it was probably best not to tell me at the time…)
Lunch (6 different types of feijoada, Brazilian bean stew, at the hotel buffet - smoked rib, sausage, offal - I wimped out and had the vegan); a rest; then part three: the boat ride.
Another shuttle, another very efficient operation, and a group of us were taken on a long electric car through the forest, then led on a nature walk by an incredibly multi-lingual guide (everything in Portuguese, English and Spanish, with immaculate accents), and finally, through a life jacket-fitting production line, onto a large speedboat - “enjoy your shower!” were the guide’s ominous parting words…
The journey started slowly, then speeded up until we were skimming across the water, which was welcome in the heat. We stopped for a fabulous view of the part of the Falls opposite the hotel - and then it was on to the main event. The captain drove the boat so close to the big Falls that we were all absolutely drenched - it wasn’t a shower, it was a wave of water, and it happened about 5 times. So unnecessary, but SO fun! Then a fast boat ride back, with water sloshing about the bottom, and a sudden tropical rainstorm stinging our face with the speed.
More dry clothes, then after all the day’s excitement, Jemima and I were too tired to walk down the trail again for sunset, so we watched it from the hotel tower while Kevin made the trek. Golden light illuminating the spray - beautiful. Then dinner in the hotel, and bed. I don’t think days get much better than that.
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| Beside - the trail |
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| Red earth walking to Parque des Aves |
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Above - helicopter ride |
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| Excitement! |
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| Fear... |
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| Our hotel |
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Below - boat ride |
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Just before we went under |
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| On our way back, soaking wet |
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Sunset from the Tower |
