"The coolest little capital in the world"*

"Mummy, I don't want this rain to happen," said Jemima as we travelled south from Whanganui to Wellington. Neither did we, Jemima, neither did we. Luckily it didn't look like we were missing much: out of the window was a succession of fairly unattractive rural towns (although admittedly not seen at their best through the driving rain). But we had a good (undercover) stopover in mind: the Southern Hemisphere's best car collection at the Southwood Car Museum! A treat for Daddy.

After a car park lunch we rushed in through the rain. Kevin had had the foresight to teach Jemima how to take photos properly on the iPhone, so he wandered at will while she spent a happy hour supervised by me (the fruits of her labour reproduced below - some of which are better than my, admittedly fairly rubbish photography efforts). From the earliest cars, to a wide selection of early 20th century cars, to a large 1970s collection, and everything in between, including motorbikes, an ambulance and a Jeepney from the Philippines - it was huge, and we all enjoyed it in our own way. Then tea and a cookie, and off to Wellington, Jemima listening to story tapes and singing along with the Frozen CD to while away the journey.

The rain finally cleared on our approach, although the sky was still a bit foreboding; but we found our way successfully to our city site - a motorhome car park with electricity but nothing else, right in the centre of Wellington. Kevin got the van successfully into a tiny space, and after a bit of research, called us an Uber (luxury! civilisation!) for Mount Victoria Peak, and a view over Wellington. We had a good perspective on how it's surrounded by various water inlets, and of aeroplanes taking off and landing from a runway that finished in the sea; but the weather wasn't the best for viewing. So back down (in another Uber, lovely), and a regroup before dinner. 

Jemima was a bit tired, grumpy and hungry; so she was fed early with the remains of the spag bol ("YUM!") while Kevin did a recce of the area; then we went out together to explore. This central area of Wellington has a raffish and slightly Bohemian charm, very different from Auckland's clean cut cosmopolitanism. Vintage shops ("Madame Fancy Pants" and the "Paper Bag Princess" being my favourites) rubbed shoulders with coffee shops, tattoo parlours, and pubs, all slightly quirky, graffiti'd, or with a mainly black-and-leather wearing clientele. It was all very lively, and made us want to join in the fun. After some effort (all the interesting little bistros were full, these New Zealanders seem to eat early), we lucked out with a Mediterranean called Loretta's. Open and airy, with a brilliant sprouted white  onion centrepiece and welcoming waitresses, it also had great food: chargrilled-but-pink lamb and sumac skewers with farro, herbs and yoghurt for me; and a clean and crispy tomato pizza for Kevin; and for a post-spag bol Jemima, chocolate and salted peanut ice cream. It was all a little bit different and all very tasty (and memorable for Jemima amusing herself by taking selfie videos doing her own interpretation of the haka, which was hilarious for us all). 

We have a day in Wellington tomorrow before our ferry South. I think I'm going to like it.

*From The Guidebook (The Lonely Planet of course...)