Another early start (this is SO unlike us!) to get across the Border before the queues - but when we got to Iguazú (not Iguaçu over here), it was clearly going to be a more crowded experience than our incredible Brazilian day.
Another national park, but three trails this time: Lower (water’s edge); Upper (along the top edge of the main Falls); and Garganta del Diablo, or Devil’s Throat, the U-shaped uppermost part of the Falls.
We had a lovely driver/ guide for the day, Diogo, and he took us onto the Upper tail first, pointing out ginormous catfish, and giving the history of the Falls - Iguazu, meaning Big Water in the local Guarani language, was first discovered by Westerners in 15-something, when the first boat of a Spanish canoe expedition went over them by mistake - easily done, the river seems so peaceful then SUDDENLY disappears… Jemima even had a geography lesson on how they were made (this is a learning experience!). It’s mesmerising standing at the top, watching the water boil and seethe over the edge - the power of it is incredible.
Then it was a quaint narrow-gauge train ride to the start of the Devil’s Throat trail. This is the big one - again, metal walkways over the water, but this time right out to the mightiest bit of the Falls. It was very different to our Brazilian experience though, because this time we were with hundreds of other people - it was a scrum to get to the front to see. But even so, it was still epic - there’s something about Big Nature that is deeply thrilling.
Or Small Nature actually - the highlight of Jemima’s day was when our guide helped her get a gorgeous butterfly on her finger - shiny bright blue wings above, brown patterns below. It got on the train with her and stayed for half the journey, gently flapping its wings and exploring her hand.
Our final Argentinian experience was a very welcome but slightly disappointing steak - I think we’ll definitely have better in Buenos Aires - before the transfer home. I’m pleased we did it, but it wasn’t anywhere as good as the Brazilian side (but yesterday would be very hard to beat).
It finished well though. After a swim for Jemima, and a sitting-in-the-pool-with-a-caipirinha for me (I had to ask for a weak one, as the last one they’d given me was so strong I couldn’t drink it), we took a sunset walk down to “our” side of the Falls.
It was stunning. We saw more vultures than people, circling high in the sunset, included the pure white King Vulture. Jemima kept chasing the baby geckos, and finally managed a photo. And we saw a whole flock of swallows coming in to roost - actually behind the Falls! They flew at high speed towards the intimidating curtain of water that was pounding on the rocks beneath, and at the last minute they found a gap in the flow and dived for it. Amazing.
After a sweaty walk back up, even at 7.30pm, it was tasty pizza from the hotel restaurant (artichoke and lemon - I loved it, the others weren’t so sure…), then bed - with the prospect of our first lie-in to look forward to…
The border crossing:
The Upper trail:
The train and the Devil’s Throat:
The walkways (very hot in 35 degrees!):
Jemima’s butterfly:
My caipirinha:
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