Showing posts with label Pollença. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Pollença. Show all posts

Thursday, 15 March 2018

Jemima climbs a mountain

"This feels flat!" said Jemima, skipping along as Kevin and I puffed and panted next to her. It didn't feel like it to us.

She had been asking to climb a mountain like Mummy and Daddy (having seen photos of our various hikes), and today we were starting with something gentle: a 45 minute walk up a well-marked path to Santuari del Puig de Maria near Pollença. We needed have worried: she is fitter than we are. It must be all the scooting.

After a lovely sunny drive to the north-west of the island, we'd found the turning and parked the car with others near the bottom of a narrow tarmac-ed road. It led up past some very pretty old stone houses until it started its switch-backing route up through beautiful green countryside. Before long, we could see Pollença town lying beneath us, crouched golden in the green valley. And then it got further and further below, as the road climbed and climbed. 

After about twenty minutes the road stopped, and the route turned into a cobbled  path, thankfully edged with stones as by this point we were pretty high, and still getting higher. We weren't alone: this is clearly a popular route, and we met a variety of other people hiking up and down: families with children Jemima's age, elderly couples with those walking poles; groups of teenagers in all the gear: all of human life was represented. And at one point, while we were toiling up the steep cobbles, we were overtaken by a young man striding up at speed with a large box of some provisions on his shoulders: the only way to get anything to the top is by foot, which given there is a restaurant up there, is quite impressive.

And so was Jemima. Not one complaint; seemingly tireless; she just kept going, saying (with some pride) how easy she found it. And then we made it to the top, to another one of these impossibly perched elegant religious buildings with fabulous views. "My head is hot!" she said. So we got her an ice cream which she ate sitting in the sun with a view of Pollença town far below at the foot of the mountains, which spread out ahead of us until they ended in the sea. Beautiful.

After an explore of the atmospheric Santuari: a darkened church, terraces with sheep, various warm stone buildings, and a scattering of puffing visitors (including babies and dogs - they all made it up, obviously with help), we started the journey down. The cobbles were actually quite difficult to walk on, as they were large, with big gaps between, and a bit slippy. But clutching Jemima firmly by the (very sweaty) hand, we made our way down, marvelling at the views en route. Jemima even wanted to run down, she was so full of beans. We could say her first mountain climb had been a complete success.

After we got back to the car, we drove the short distance to Port de Pollença on the coast. Having found a parking place with difficulty (what it must be like in the summer!), we started down the newly "reformed" (as they say round here) and not quite finished seafront Paseo. There were a lot of cyclists: Mallorca is a major cycling destination during the winter, and this was clearly a main route: the Paseo had its own cycle lane with people of all ages and shapes whizzing up and down in Lycra.

A little way along we found Tolo's, which turned out to be a popular cyclists' venue: they had Pasta Wiggins on the menu, and the interior was full of bikes, photos and signed jerseys. The food wasn't Chameli's cheap but it was absolutely delicious: Kevin's prawn masala was the best curry he's ever had; I had amazing Mallorcan-style fish and chips, with light-as-a-feather fish with my favourite padrón peppers and a huge pile of moreish fried onions; and, unusually, the kids menu had fish on it too, so Jemima had tasty pan-fried bream. What a lucky find.

A final (full) Paseo wander, and then it was home-time. We drove back across the island, the sun still shining, happy hikers.



Best foot forward...





Jemima drew us a map (we are climbing the yellow mountain)



Our uphill path





Water break







The Santuari























And down again





Port de Pollença - racing along the Paseo



Jemima took a photo of Daddy (and his beer)













They don't have benches, they have stone sunbeds...



The mountain Jemima climbed!



Friday, 26 January 2018

A Roman bridge, a medieval hill

A surprising fact from the City Sightseeing tour: the Roman capital of Mallorca wasn't in Palma, but instead in the north - the city of Pollentia, which rather unambiguously means "power" in Latin - they were making their presence felt. Our destination today: its namesake, Pollença.

For only the second time this trip, it was a bit overcast in the morning - Jemima and I were back into coats and scarves for our morning scoot. But as Kevin and I drove across the middle of the island, the sky ahead of us lightened; and when we arrived in Port de Pollença, the associated coastal village, it was another sunny, if breezy, day. (Apparently I came here twenty years ago on a family sailing trip around Mallorca, about which I remember very little, much to my dad's chagrin. I definitely didn't remember this, sadly.)

We had a pleasant mooch around the marina (the boats here looked more workmanlike and less flash than the ones at Portals); and a coffee looking out at the boats anchored at safe harbour in the pretty mountain-fringed bay. Then drove 4 miles inland to the main town, parking on its northern edge.

As we started walking to the old town, we passed a sign to the Pont Romà - the only (probably) Roman bridge remaining in Mallorca. Knowing my tendencies, Kevin suggested we take a little detour. It was small, and the so-called Torrent de Sant Jordi that it spanned was anti-climactically dry; but even so I got that thrill when I experience something properly Old - imagine the people who have crossed that bridge over the ages...

Commune with the past over, we continued on, until we saw another sign, this time to Calvari. So we followed it. This was supposed to be a "rest day" on our running schedule; but Calvari is actually Pollença's Hill of Calvary, a famous viewpoint over the town. Which meant a long, windy and thigh-burning road ever upwards. 

Glimpses of the view, and the stone crosses appearing periodically along the road, provided appealing distractions from my legs. And then we got to the top, to the little chapel and what appeared to be a very cute stone house attached. Laid out beneath us, accompanied by the strains of a Spanish guitar, was golden Pollença town sitting in a valley surrounded by mountains, with the Bay of Pollença and headland of Formentor stretching away into the distance. Another epic Mallorcan view.

The return journey was down the Avenue of Pines, 365 shallow stone steps lined with cyprus trees. More adorable stone houses appeared either side; and the view remained great either down towards the picturesque town, or looking back up to the white chapel, shining in the sun. 

Pollença is actually more medieval than Roman, with lots of attractive little narrow streets. (The area was given to the Knights Templar in the 13th century by King Jaime I of Aragon, as thanks for their help in reconquering Mallorca from the Moors - the Knights used the Hill of Calvary for the town gallows, apparently). After a lovely wander, we found the main square, and stopped for a drink in the sunshine (water for me - I'm off the booze for a few days after yesterday...). Then another wander back to the car, Kevin leading us unerringly through the maze of streets - I don't know how he does it.

Lunch at Chameli's today was fidueá, a sort of noodle version of a paella. (I drank water again, and was very careful to stop when I was full, thank you Granny.) Then off to collect Jemima. I brought a picnic because I thought we could go down to the beach after school, now that she's less tired; but the weather turned as I walked down there, so we came home and she had a picnic in the sitting room instead. The weather isn't supposed to be that great for the next few days, but the wonderful thing about a Mallorcan winter is that I have confidence the sun will return! The beach will still be there then - as will the rest of Mallorca, ready for us to explore.



Port de Pollença, surrounded by mountains









The Pont Romà





El Calvari - our road upwards (you can just see a stone cross on the left hand bend)









You can just see our guitarist on the left...
















Pollença