Friday felt English - chilly, with grey skies and spitting rain for our scoot to school. But Kevin and I stuck to our training plan, and ran regardless. Then we ventured out (with umbrella) to Portals Vells ("old" in Catalan), at the very western tip of the Bay of Palma.
After leaving the main road to go onto the headland, we weaved down an immaculate narrow ribbon of tarmac through undeveloped woodlands - presumably a protected area - until the first of the three bays that make up Portals Vells. A few dog walkers and a motorboat at anchor were the only other signs of life; but despite the cloudy sky and the deserted restaurant, it was still unbelievably pretty, with more of the fabulous turquoise water we've seen in other little bays around the island.
As the sun came out, we followed the coast path east past some amazing hollows that had been carved out of the sandy rock by the sea. Then after a slightly precarious cliff scramble, we wound down the hill towards the second bay, Cala Mago. This was smaller, but with a similarly deserted restaurant, and equally pretty (I've put a request in to come back here for lunch once it opens - it looks idyllic). And then a more sensible (if steeply up- and down-hill) road route to the final bay, frequented by naturists apparently, but not today - we had the place to ourselves.
Another beautiful bit of Mallorca. I've heard the little calas (coves) around the island poetically described as a necklace of pearls around the coast, and after having seen a few, I can see what the writer meant. They are mostly not long wide strands, but instead these gorgeous little bays with tiny strips of sand and this amazing sea - I've always thought the Greek sea was the best, but this is rivalling it. A lovely little explore, with some more exercise for slightly tired legs - we have been discovering Mallorca's hills alongside Mallorca's bays.
After we'd walked back to the car, we drove on as far as you could go onto the headland. The road disintegrated, so we parked and walked up the last bit, until the Bay of Palma stretched out before us - from the lighthouse just to our right that marked the western edge, and then the 50km of the Bay curving away to our left and onto the horizon. It is huge. Quite a view. Then that was followed by a little drive around the EXTREMELY expensive real estate on the hillside above the third bay - an area called Sol de Mallorca, where the two houses for sale would have set you back £5m or £9m respectively.
Back home to Chameli's for delicious pasta with ham, peas and mushrooms (at this rate, I will forget how to cook! At least the increase in eating out costs has been balanced by a massive reduction in supermarket spending...); and then to collect a knackered Jemima from school. It was the celebration of Sant Antoni in Portals Nous that night (which I now know means "new" in Catalan - although I still don't know what "Portals" means...). Patron saint of animals, Sant Antoni is celebrated in all the villages in Mallorca during January with fiestas, including bonfires and devil dances in some places. Our bonfire was being lit at 7pm, so we thought there was a slight chance we might make it; but no, she was pale and grumpy, so we parked it. Another thing for another time. Instead, an early night, and on to the weekend. More exploring to come!
Portals Vells
The sandy cliffs
The entrance to the furthest two bays (and pricey Sol de Mallorca behind me - the blue and turquoise house has both a human and a car lift down from the road)
Cliff scramble
Cala Mago, or Portals Vells II
The furthest bay - Portals Vells III
A mini marina for the millionaires residing above
The three bays of Portals Vells seen from the headland
The Badia de Palma
The lighthouse at the western edge (we can see this flashing from our flat)
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