Today we planned to explore the Alcazar, Seville's version of the Alhambra, a 9th C palace that is still in use today. We walked into town again this morning, during which Jemima surprisingly fell asleep (she said she was tired and wanted to lie down, so what can you do? It's good she can say what she wants, even if it is napping at 11am). After a slightly fractious journey (Kevin and I unusually being directionally-challenged), we made it. First stop, the cafe, for a restorative coffee and an early ham/ cheese sandwich lunch. Next, the pool of enormous Koi that we'd passed on the way to the cafe, so Jemima could feed them: it turned into a thrashing melee of frantic fish fighting to get the bread, rolling over each other in their desperation. But she enjoyed it. And then after the aggression, the peace of the gardens. Both Kevin and I preferred them to the Alhambra's, partly because there were fewer people, but also because they were on a more human scale. It was all so attractive and enticing, you could see why during the last 11 centuries any nearby wannabe ruler immediately took over the palace - we'd rather like to live there too. After a gorgeous meander, we went inside briefly (lovely tiling, the spaces not as graceful as the Alhambra), then moved on - time for a sit down.
We found a cafe in a pretty courtyard just outside the walls, with a fountain that Jemima proceeded to soak herself in. Some delicious churros - thinner and lighter than the Granadan version, I preferred them; and a bit of a play with two American kids (the eldest of whom had just discovered Peppa Pig); then on again. Wandering past the Cathedral, we were accosted by a hawker of flamenco show tickets. Having nothing better to do before dinner time, we went in that direction, via a drink in another square (it was a day punctuated by drinks and sit downs).
The show was being held in the Museum of Flamenco, set up by one of Seville's most famous flamenco dancers. Before the show, we had a look round, and it was great: atmospheric videos where you could choose the language commentary; beautiful costume and shoe displays; and best of all, a room through a velvet curtain with a giant screen showing different types of flamenco dance, practically life size. We had an impromptu family flamenco dance off - Kevin did some of his patented spins, until it hurt his (still healing) arm.
Then off to the show. I loved it - I love watching dance generally, and here was no different: it was mesmerising watching the interplay between the two dancers, and between the singer and guitarist. You could see they were speaking to each other in their own way, and appreciating each others' artistry. Yes, the female dancer was a bit old, and the male dancer was a bit weedy, both of which put Kevin off - but this was the 5pm show after all (first of three today), and we were accompanied by an uninterested but thankfully quiet toddler watching Peppa Pig, so not an ideal audience. But I still loved it.
Then on to our next wander+sit down. We had a fun detour through the busy main Sevillan shopping district, buying a souvenir tree decoration for Jemima, then started to think about dinner. But most places aren't even open here at 7pm. So it was a choice between an empty tourist restaurant, or a fast food place. After circling the area fruitlessly, nearly ending up in McDonalds, and actually going as far as the counter of the Spanish version, we steeled our spines, and just walked to see what we could find. The area grew rougher, the restaurants scarcer, the time ticked on - especially for a hungry toddler who'd had an early nap. We decided to regroup, and stopped at a (not yet open) restaurant for a drink. Kevin did some googling, and it turned out Tripadvisor's number 2 restaurant in Seville was three minutes away. What a stroke of luck. But then our phones died.
This could have been frustrating, unable to find a restaurant just around the corner. But luckily I'd remembered its name (Bar Eslava), and I asked a nice lady in a shop, who took me two doors down to a friendly large man outside a bar, who knew it, and gave us directions. So at 8.15pm we arrived - when it was only supposed to open at 8.30pm - and only just managed to get a seat in the tiny dining room.
We proceeded to have a brilliant meal. Something for everyone - delicious hake in green peppers for me, melting slow cooked pork cheek for Jemima, unbelievably sweet spare ribs for Kevin (7th best in the world apparently, but not my thing although he loved them), and the first and third prize winning Sevillan tapas from 2010 and 2013 respectively - a slow cooked egg on a mushroom cake, and a cigar of Brie, cuttlefish and algae - both unusual, and delicious. Plus fried sardines, cheese croquettes, slow cooked leeks and a vegetable terrine. A great meal for our last night in Seville, and worth all the trauma finding it.
It was standing room only as we left, struggling through the crowds by the bar - we'd clearly arrived just in time. We got a taxi on the main road, and Jemima fell asleep within two minutes. We finally made it back to Beatrix after a long day, but a good one - Jemima didn't stir as I transferred her to bed. Seville is another place both Kevin and I would come back to, in a heartbeat - it's a wonderful, appealing, friendly, beautiful city. What a great finale. And we start the journey home tomorrow.
The Alcazar:
Jemima had her first mythology lesson from these:
Jemima stalking a peacock:
Jemima splashing in the fountain:
The Flamenco Museum:
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