We took the coast road to San Sebastian to give Jemima more time to sleep. The border was non-existent: we crossed a bridge over a river, and that was it, Spain! Slightly shabbier than France on first appearance, but pretty green hills (and lots of signs I couldn't read...). After a slightly stressful search for the Aire (some 'debate' about the co-ordinates versus the road signs), we were in: not a pretty place, but a good base to see San Sebastián. And how good it is, just stunning in the afternoon sunlight: a huge semicircular bay of blue sea with an even bluer sky above, and some beautiful green islands off the coast, all framed by a wide, open promenade. Lots of people were out for their afternoon stroll along the seafront - one big difference to France, which often seemed deserted. Jemima was more interested in the bus ride (I google translated "two adults and one child"), and then another carousel (cheaper than Biarritz, a good sign of things to come).
San Sebastián is supposed to have the best tapas in Spain, but I've been here once before and had a fairly average meal - the reputation is traded on by many places, but lived up to only by a few. Determined to avoid that this time, I'd researched a good place. And we found it - except they were shutting up as we got there. So we found somewhere that would take us - and had a fairly average meal. Jemima seemed happy though, chewing on her calamari with vigour. I hated the ordering experience - reduced to one word requests ("agua"), not knowing even basic vocab or the polite bits ("I would like..."). I even said "bitte" for please, my brain short-circuiting to 'any foreign language except French'. I am determined that by the end of this trip I will be better! But we had a jolly evening nevertheless, and just about managed to make ourselves understood to the taxi driver to get home - Jemima managed a competent "gracias" and "adios". She's going to speak better than me at this rate.
PS Bon Anniversaire/ Feliz Cumpleanos to Grandpa!
The walk in Biarritz:
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