Oysters, sea snails and cake

We had originally planned a night in a campsite on the coast near Bordeaux, but we basically drove in and drove out again - we are starting to feel as if campsites are great if you need access to facilities, but if not, they are a bit contrary to the spirit of motorhoming; we have most facilities with us, after all. Off for an adventure into Cap Ferrat instead, a pretty pine-covered headland sticking into the Bay of Biscay. 

The advantage to travelling in low season is the peace - you can imagine this would be overrun in the summer. The disadvantage is that slightly unloved feeling, and places can be closed. But we found a hut in the Quartier des Pecheurs that would take us in. The menu consisted solely of oysters and sea snails from the bay outside the door, and a local pork pate (which Jemima thought was cake). But that, plus lovely French bread, butter and white wine, made a surprisingly good dinner. (Although I love oysters I can be squeamish about other shellfish, but the sea snails were delicious). And Jemima demonstrated an unexpected grasp of French, saying "merci beaucoup" unprompted when the food arrived - she must have been taking it in all along. Then home for the night: the weirdest yet, an Aire outside the walls of the local cemetery. But safe and warm inside our lovely motorhome, we could be anywhere and it doesn't matter.

Cap Ferret: