Macchine e maiale

Today we went to Ragusa. In 1693, a massive earthquake, following an Etnan eruption, levelled 23 Sicilian towns. Some of these, which were rebuilt in the Baroque style of the era, are now grouped as a UNESCO world heritage site. Ragusa is not far from here, and rather than inflict 23 different sites on Jemima and Kevin, it was nominated as our Baroque Sicilian Town representative.

And very nice it was too. On a hill, with lovely views, still on a winding medieval road layout but filled with overly decorated, crenellated, be-columned palazzi and churches. (It is not my favourite architectural style, but it does have impact en masse.) We found a great parking spot at the bottom of some stairs up to the old town, then had a lovely walk around on a sunny, fresh day (again, the Sicilians in thick coats and scarves and us in short sleeves - it does feel a bit weird). Then, in the square by the extravagant Duomo, we found a little tourist train ("trenino"!). Jemima was very keen, so on we went. The journey was fun, but mainly notable for little English Arthur, four, who was in the row behind us. Jemima asked repeatedly to join him, and eventually did (looking very pleased with herself, and chatting incessantly, although he largely ignored her). And then it was my favourite time: lunch.

After our disappointing dinner last night, Kevin was keen on a good meal and had spotted a likely venue on our train ride, to which he led us back: A Rusticana, on a picturesque side street, full of Ragusan families lunching. We found a table outside in their pretty courtyard, in the sun (except Jemima), but hey, we're English. The menu, only in Italian (thank you Google Translate) was heavily meaty, and Kevin went with it: lovely ravioli with ricotta, pork and tomato sauce; then more pig (maiale), which turned out to be delicious slices, although with very bad roast potatoes - at least we English are supreme in one culinary area. I was more circumspect, with mushroom risotto and a veal cutlet - both excellent, with an incredible blood orange, red onion and chilli salad. And Jemima had an enormous chargrilled swordfish steak and chips - the best swordfish I've ever had.

Another one of those lovely, long, lazy lunches, in a beautiful place, with beautiful food. Then, as we were finishing eating, we had a visitor: Francesco, five, with his three toy cars, sea plane, and fire engine (machines - macchine). He and Kevin had a great chat about cars (neither speaking the other's language); and he and Jemima played, and played, and played. I had nice chats to his mother and grandparents - it was Francesco's great-grandmother's 80th birthday and there was a table of 30 Ragusans in the restaurant to celebrate. (The grandfather is a motorhomer, and is planning August touring France, so was pleased to hear about our trip.)

Eventually we had to say our goodbyes, and as a parting gift, very sweetly, Jemima was given the fire engine. (She has barely let go of "my present" since.) With many waves, and a cuddle for Jemima from our waiter/ the restaurant owner, who suggested she stay there, we staggered back through the Baroque finery to Beatrix, and drove home. A final play on the beach as the sun set; bread and cheese for dinner; and bed. Baroque Sicily, an exciting salad discovery, and a fire engine memento of a friend. Not a bad tally for a day.

The Duomo:

Ragusa:

The trenino:

Lunch:

Jemima brandishing her present:

Jemima, Francesco and his sister Fabbiana:

A bit more Ragusa:

Beatrix in her parking place:

Back on the beach: